Thursday 9 December 2010

Sundarban in Bangladesh


Understand:

The Sundarbans are the largest littoral mangrove belt in the world, stretching 80 km (50 mi) into the Bangladeshi and Indian hinterland from the coast. The Sundarbans has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The forests aren't just mangrove swamps though, they include some of the last remaining stands of the mighty jungles which once covered the Gangetic plain. The Sundarbans cover an area of 10,500 sq km, of which about one-third is covered in water/marsh areas. Since 1966 the Sundarbans have been a wildlife sanctuary, and it is estimated that there are now 400 Royal Bengal tigers and about 30,000 spotted deer in the area.

History Landscape

Flora and fauna

Royal Bengal Tigers are the main draw, but you can also spot Saltwater Crocodiles, various primates, leopards, King Cobras and Indian Cobras.

Sundarbans is home to many different species of birds, mammals, insects, reptiles and fishes. Over 120 species of fish and over 260 species of birds have been recorded in the Sundarbans. The Gangetic River Dolphin (Platanista gangeticus) is common in the rivers. No less than 50 species of reptiles and eight species of amphibians are known to occur. The Sundarbans now support the only population of the Estuarine, or Salt-Water Crocodile (Crocodylus parasus) in Bangladesh, and that population is estimated at less than two hundred individuals.

The park is also home to sea gypsy fishing families who catch fish using trained otters.





Climate

  • October to February — winter, cool and temperate
  • March to May — summer, hot and humid
  • June to September — the monsoon season, wet and windy

Get in

Safaris are available from Dhaka,Khulna . Ranging from an overnight trip to a week, and are probably the best way to experience the Sundarbans.

Organizing your own trip from Munsiganj-Satkhira,Mongla or Khulna is possible (and cheaper, if you're a shrewd negotiator), but questionably worth the hassle. You need a permit from the Divisional Forest Office in Khulna. With permit in hand, it's possible to hire a boat from Mongla or Dhangmari to get you to Hiron Point. From Hiron Point you will have to hire a guide to take you into the park.

Day trips from Mongla are not very interesting, and probably better avoided. After negotiating the price of a boat down to something only slightly less rediculous you'll most likely be taken to Karamjal Wildlife Center, where there are some tame deer to feed and some monkeys, crocs and snakes in cages. But surely you didn't come all this way to see a rundown zoo filled with depressed animals and raucous Bangladeshis. Boatmen seem to want no less than Tk 200 for the trip (locals pay Tk 50/day), and the center charges a very steep Tk 750/day entry fee for foreigners.

From Kolkata (India), suburban trains can take you to Canning (64 km) from where launch services are available for Sundarban. Otherwise, you can avail of buses to reach Raidighi (76 km), Najat (92 km), Sonakhali (100 km) and Namkhana (105 km) from where motorboats will take you to Sundarban.





Fees/Permits

  • Divisional Forest Office, Circuit House Road, Khulna, +20665 is the place to apply for the mandatory permit.
  • For visiting the tiger reserve (West Bengal, India), permission is given by:

Field Director, Sunderban Tiger Reserve, Port Canning.

Entry Permits can be obtained from Bagna, Canning and Sonakhali for STR (Sundarban Tiger Reserve) and at Namkhana, Canning and Raidighi for Western region of Sunderban Forest.

For permits, foreigners can contact: The Joint Secretary (Forest), Govt. of West Bengal, 4th Floor, G-Block, Writers' Building, Kolkata- 700 001. Tel: 225-5601 Ext: 411/754.

Get around

You have to rely on boats for visiting the various tourist spots of the Sunderbans. You can also hire your own boat but the charges are pretty steep (Rs. 1500-2000 per day). However, in case you wish to move around on your own, make sure to hire a guide or else the boatsmen may take you for a ride (the waterways of the Sunderbans are so similar to one another that even if your boat makes round of the same place, you won't be able to tell the difference without the services of an experienced guide). The Sajnekhali Tiger Reserve (West Bengal, India) is the place from where you can hire a guide.





See

  • Hiron Point a beautiful spot, great for spotting tigers and other wildlife
  • Tin Kona Island another popular spot for wildlife spotting.
  • Katka a base for safaris, and good spot to see tigers and for bird-watching.
  • Dublar Char Island it's possible to fish here.

For people visiting the place from India (West Bengal), the following should form a part of the itinerary:

  • Sudhanyakhali Watch Tower - Most of the tigers are sighted from this tower. Some other wildlife like axis deers and crocodiles may also be seen from this watch tower.
  • Sajnekhali Watch Tower - Another watch tower that also houses a museum, a Bonobibi Temple and a crocodile park within its premises.
  • Sajnekhali Pakiralaya
  • Dobanki Watch Tower
  • Bhagbatpur crocodile project
  • Buridabri
  • Netidhopani - It has a temple that’s 400 years old
  • Kanak - Ideal for viewing the Olive Ridley Turtles
  • Holiday Island - It is famous for the Barking Deers

Do

Apart from visiting the tourist destinations, you may also take some time-out to go to a nearby village to see the life-style of the local people and talk to them to have an insight into their lives.

Buy

Some handcrafted articles made by the local people could be good mementos to bring back home.

Eat

It's best to savor the delicious dishes made of fresh catches from the water. Some of the lodges also have their own kitchen garden to give the guests a sample of fresh produce.

Drink

It is wise to carry own drinking water or carry water purifier tablet/liquid drop.

Sleep

  • Sundarvilla (sundarban), Kolkata Office-9B,Esplanade,East,Row,Kolkata-69Shop No-44, (Pick Up From Kolkata.), 09051115228., [1]. checkin: Start From Kolkata 7a.m.. Pick up,drop,sightseen on boat,Well Furnish Room,Everyday Evening Local Cultaural Programe.for Detail Contact. 3200-3800. edit
  • Suranjana Resort (Sundarban,), Dayapur,OppoSite SajneyKhali Forest Office, (Two Hours By Luxury Boat From Gadkhali To Our Resort.), 09163914473., [2]. checkin: 3days 2nights package.. Fooding AllTime Buffet OnResort.Local Cultaraul Programe Every evening,Daily morning We Go DeepForest By Boat For Sightseeing. 4200/-. edit

Lodging Camping

Backcountry

Stay safe

While as a tourist you are unlikely to face any danger from the local wildlife, it is wise to be informed that two of the most potentially dangerous animals on Earth reside within the Sundarbans. The Sundarbans is well known as the only place left where Bengal Tigers still hunt and kill humans, and they do it regularly. That being said, these victims are always locals who live within the Sundarbans and rely on it for survival, hence there is a "live and let live" policy between man and tiger. Saltwater Crocodiles also inhabit the Sundarbans and are well known to be the largest and (along with the Nile Crocodile) most aggressive reptile on Earth. In the Sundarbans you are unlikely to be in crocodile territory without a large boat, so the risk is minimal. As you can see, while living in the Sundarbans is extremely dangerous, very little risk is posed to the average tourist. Snakes exist, but are primarily either shy or nocturnal, unless you plan on venturing off into the bush alone you don't have much to worry about.





Stay healthy

As with the rest of tropical Asia, mosquito-borne diseases including (but not limited to) Malaria and Dengue Fever are present within the Sundarbans at varying levels dependent on the season (the Wet season representing the greatest risk.) It is important to note that the most feared animal (by both locals and tourists) within the tropics is the mosquito and represents a greater threat than any man-eater could. Also, as with any rural part of India, drinking water should be limited to bottled only and always use your best judgment when choosing what to eat.

Wednesday 8 December 2010

Chittagong City


Understand:Chittagong is a fairly big, spread out town, and the largest international seaport in the country. Like Dhaka the streets are filled with masses of rickshaws, though the city puts in a little more effort to keep its streets and sidewalks clean. Foreigners will notice a distinct increase in nuisance from beggars in certain intersections, for example, New Market Circle and the central Railway Station. Majority of the beggars are from other parts of the country such as Greater Mymensingh Region and Greater Noakhali area. This is due to the fact that Chittagonian people are more prone to charity relative to other parts of the country.

The busiest part of town is the area around the train station and Station Road, while things get a little more bearable as you move further north. GEC Circle is the intersection of Zakir Hossain Rd, O. R. Nizam Rd and CDA Avenue, about 3 km north of the train station, and is the center of middle to upper class life with a variety of shady restaurants and shopping.

Chittagong is a conservative place. Local women tend to dress in modest clothing and don't like to shake hands with men. This does not apply to the upper class who are very westernised. Local people aren't offended when foreigners don't comply with the expectations of local people. Foreigners drinking alcohol or foreign women wearing skirts which show their bare legs are going to upset people. If you are going to do that there will be no end to males staring at you.

In the more affluent neighborhoods like Khulshi and Nasirabad local women are more westernised. The parties that let women have fun are mostly indoors, and Chittagong Club or Hotel Agrabad are fairly happening places at that.

The Chittagonian enthusiasm for inviting people to massive feasts is a bit of legend both locally and elsewhere in Bangladesh. Known as mezbani these feasts feature a tremendously hot curry, usually of beef. If you're not used to it, approach with caution

Get in:


By air

Shah Amanat International Airport (ICAO: CGP) is modern and clean and serves as Chittagong's international airport besides domestic services to and from Dhaka and Sylhet. It is the 2nd busiest in Bangladesh. Situated in Patenga, it has international services to destinations such as Kolkata, Sharjah, Muscat, and Kuwait. Formerly known as MA Hannan International Airport, but was renamed on April 2, 2005 by the Government of Bangladesh. Major airlines that serve the airport include Biman Bangladesh Airlines, GMG Airlines, Air Arabia, Kuwait Airways, Oman Air, United Airways (BD), Best Air, and Royal Bengal Airlines.

By train

Trains run to Dhaka, Sylhet and other cities. The main route out of Chittagong runs north to Comilla and Akhaura, from where the routes to Dhaka and Sylhet diverge. The train station is on Station Road just west of Jubilee Rd. Chittagong is a terminal station on the metre gauge eastern section of the Bangladesh Railway. The headquarters of this railway are located here. Train journeys are, in general, cheaper than bus journeys.

By bus

There are 2 spots in the city where the major private companies operate from and have offices - just to the south of GEC Circle on CDA Ave, and on Station Rd near Hotel Golden Inn. Greenline, Silkline and Shohag are the nicest and have frequent services to Dhaka (6 hours) and Cox's Bazar (3 hours). Greenline also offers the only direct bus to Sylhet (Tk 550, 6 hours).

Local buses to Cox's Bazar (Tk 140, 3 hours) run frequently throughout the day from Cinema Palace Bus Station, about 1km north of the Station Rd area.

By boat

  • BIWTC has an office and launches its ferries from Sadarghat, about 1km south of the train station down Sadarghat Rd. Barisal is the main destination, from where you can continue to Dhaka.

Get around:


Transport in Chittagong is similar to that of the country's capital Dhaka. There are various bus systems, taxis, and as well as smaller 'Baby' or 'CNG' taxis which are basically tricycle-structured motor vehicles. Also, there are the traditional manual rickshaws which are very common.

  • Cycle-rickshaws are the natural choice, and cost around Tk 5 per kilometer.
  • Walking is also a possibility as the town isn't too confusing, but keep and eye out as the streets can be very busy, especially around Station Rd and Jubilee Rd.

  • Hazrat Shah Sufi Amanat Khan (R):

Hazrat Shah Sufi Amanat Khan (R) (capital R is used to show respect) a very famous saint of Chittagong, Bangladesh. Hazrat Shah Sufi Amanat Khan (R) came from Bihar Sharif, India. At Chittagong he lived in a cottage and accepted service as a pankha wala (hanging fan puller) in the Judge's Court. From the circumstantial evidence it appears that he was a great man of the late 18th century. The family that lives in the compound of Hazrat Shah Amanat Khan's (R) mausoleum and looks after it are Hazrat Shah Sufi Amanat Khan's descendants. They have got in their possession a Persian waqfnama (deed of endowment) of Anwar Khan, the son of Hazrat Shah Sufi Amanat Khan (R).

Hazrat Shah Sufi Amanat Khan (R) lived a very simple life. His daily routine was to attend to his duties in the Court and to engage in prayers. No one knew that he was spiritually endowed nor did he pose to be such. His spiritual greatness was revealed through a Karamat (spiritual power with magical elements recieved from The Almighty Allah) which brought him to the limelight and people came to know that he was a Wali (saint) of the highest rank. When his spiritual attainments became known, he resigned from his job and remained busy with spiritual religious act and meditation. He is ranked among the greatest saints of Chittagong. People visit his mausoleum specially to seek blessings in matters of litigation. Hazrat Shah Sufi Amanat Khan (R) lies buried in a mausoleum to the east of the Laldighi of Chittagong

  • Patenga Beach: Sandy beach at the meeting place of the roaring sea and the river Karnaphuli. It looks more beautiful from Naval Academy Road which is just beside the Shah Amanat International Airport.
  • Foy's Lake: Set amidst panoramic surroundings, this ideal spot for outings and picnics is thronged by thousands of visitors. This Lake has been created in the natural environment in 1924 by the initiative of the then Assam-Bengal Railway. This lake has been created by building a dam based on a plan by an English engineer Mr. Foy. Now an amusement park is established there. The zoo is next door.
  • Shrine of Baizid Bostami: This holy shrine attracts a large number of visitors and pilgrims. At its base there is a large pond with several hundred tortoises floating in the water. According to tradition, these turtles are descendants of evil spirits (djinns) who were cast into this shape because they incurred the wrath of the great saint who visited the place about 1100 years ago.
  • World War II Cemetery: In this well-preserved cemetery at quiet and picturesque place lie buried over 700 soldiers from Commonwealth countries and Japan. The War Cemetery is located in a hillside sloping place, in the south-western corner of Chittagong Medical College Hospital, beside the Badshah Mia Road of the city. The total area of this cemetery is eight acres, which is protected and supervised by the Commonwealth Graves Commission.
  • Ethnological Museum: Shows a mix of tribal artifacts. The Ethnological Museum of Chittagong was established in the first half of nineteen sixties. The museum contains four galleries and a small hall. It is a little dark. Some sections contain mock ups of 'village life' for the different tribal areas with life size dolls. These are reminiscent of the museum in the film 'Planet of the Apes'.
  • Chittagong Medical College: One of best medical college in Bangladesh and only specialized govt. hospital in Chittagong.It was established in 1958.
  • Baitul Falah The largest mosque in Chittagong.
  • Chandanpura Mosque: Situated in the old city, the multi-domed mosque is an architectural sight to behold.
  • Chittagong College: Situated in the old city, is one of the oldest colleges in Bangladesh (estd 1869) and also one of the prestigious academies.
  • Mohsin College:Situated beside Chittagong college. The College area covers almost 31 acres of land decked with beautiful landscape. The college Campus wears a garb of natural panoramic beauty. It is housed in eight metalled/pucca buildings on an extensive beautiful campus in the lap of nature. A beautiful play ground a stretches to the south of college gate, supplying the students a great scope to participate in different games and sports. The college campus upholds the ancient architectural beauty in the shape of a building built by the Portuguese.
  • Court Building: Situated on the Fairy Hill, this building commands a magnificent bird's eye view of Chittagong city, particularly at night. The Court building was built immediately after the East India Company conquered and declared Chittagong as a separate administrative area in 1773. The building is huge, over 250 thousand square feet and has hundreds of rooms.
  • Red-light district:The Red light district is situated near the Railway station at Kadamtoli. Opposite to the railway stations (basically there are two in Chittagong, one is the new one and another is the British built old one) a number of Hotels cater women and girls ranging from a cheap to quite a high price. Foreigners can sometimes request the room boys in their hotels for girls depending on what hotels they are staying. Some cheap hotels also offer quickies. A vast collection of porn CDs, VDVs, and books in local language are sold openly on road-side near the rail stations. This is an awsome site! At night and in evening you might even see girls standing nearby looking for customers. The place is quite crowded and looks like a typical bangkok brothel area.
  • Kattali Beach. Natural beach with mangrove forest west of Halishahar and south of Kattali.

Nearby

  • The shipbreaking yards near the Indian Ocean are Chittagong's international claim to fame, but for the wrong reasons; these are considered one of the most polluted places on Earth with highly dangerous practices and hazardous working conditions. Green Peace is actively campaigning against them and trying to bring this issue further into the light. Tourists are not usually welcome, but some travelers have been able to sweet talk the gate-keeper and get amazing photos of massive ships being dismantled for parts and steel. There are many breaking yards stretching for miles, so start at one end and try your luck until you have success. Keep your wits about you, safety practices leave something to be desired. It's also wise to keep your camera hidden until you're out of view of the officials, lest you be mistaken for a journalist out to do them harm. Bus #6 runs from Station Road, or you could hire an auto-rickshaw. (See also Alang, India).

See:


  • Hazrat Shah Sufi Amanat Khan (R):

Hazrat Shah Sufi Amanat Khan (R) (capital R is used to show respect) a very famous saint of Chittagong, Bangladesh. Hazrat Shah Sufi Amanat Khan (R) came from Bihar Sharif, India. At Chittagong he lived in a cottage and accepted service as a pankha wala (hanging fan puller) in the Judge's Court. From the circumstantial evidence it appears that he was a great man of the late 18th century. The family that lives in the compound of Hazrat Shah Amanat Khan's (R) mausoleum and looks after it are Hazrat Shah Sufi Amanat Khan's descendants. They have got in their possession a Persian waqfnama (deed of endowment) of Anwar Khan, the son of Hazrat Shah Sufi Amanat Khan (R).

Hazrat Shah Sufi Amanat Khan (R) lived a very simple life. His daily routine was to attend to his duties in the Court and to engage in prayers. No one knew that he was spiritually endowed nor did he pose to be such. His spiritual greatness was revealed through a Karamat (spiritual power with magical elements recieved from The Almighty Allah) which brought him to the limelight and people came to know that he was a Wali (saint) of the highest rank. When his spiritual attainments became known, he resigned from his job and remained busy with spiritual religious act and meditation. He is ranked among the greatest saints of Chittagong. People visit his mausoleum specially to seek blessings in matters of litigation. Hazrat Shah Sufi Amanat Khan (R) lies buried in a mausoleum to the east of the Laldighi of Chittagong

  • Patenga Beach: Sandy beach at the meeting place of the roaring sea and the river Karnaphuli. It looks more beautiful from Naval Academy Road which is just beside the Shah Amanat International Airport.
  • Foy's Lake: Set amidst panoramic surroundings, this ideal spot for outings and picnics is thronged by thousands of visitors. This Lake has been created in the natural environment in 1924 by the initiative of the then Assam-Bengal Railway. This lake has been created by building a dam based on a plan by an English engineer Mr. Foy. Now an amusement park is established there. The zoo is next door.
  • Shrine of Baizid Bostami: This holy shrine attracts a large number of visitors and pilgrims. At its base there is a large pond with several hundred tortoises floating in the water. According to tradition, these turtles are descendants of evil spirits (djinns) who were cast into this shape because they incurred the wrath of the great saint who visited the place about 1100 years ago.
  • World War II Cemetery: In this well-preserved cemetery at quiet and picturesque place lie buried over 700 soldiers from Commonwealth countries and Japan. The War Cemetery is located in a hillside sloping place, in the south-western corner of Chittagong Medical College Hospital, beside the Badshah Mia Road of the city. The total area of this cemetery is eight acres, which is protected and supervised by the Commonwealth Graves Commission.
  • Ethnological Museum: Shows a mix of tribal artifacts. The Ethnological Museum of Chittagong was established in the first half of nineteen sixties. The museum contains four galleries and a small hall. It is a little dark. Some sections contain mock ups of 'village life' for the different tribal areas with life size dolls. These are reminiscent of the museum in the film 'Planet of the Apes'.
  • Chittagong Medical College: One of best medical college in Bangladesh and only specialized govt. hospital in Chittagong.It was established in 1958.
  • Baitul Falah The largest mosque in Chittagong.
  • Chandanpura Mosque: Situated in the old city, the multi-domed mosque is an architectural sight to behold.
  • Chittagong College: Situated in the old city, is one of the oldest colleges in Bangladesh (estd 1869) and also one of the prestigious academies.
  • Mohsin College:Situated beside Chittagong college. The College area covers almost 31 acres of land decked with beautiful landscape. The college Campus wears a garb of natural panoramic beauty. It is housed in eight metalled/pucca buildings on an extensive beautiful campus in the lap of nature. A beautiful play ground a stretches to the south of college gate, supplying the students a great scope to participate in different games and sports. The college campus upholds the ancient architectural beauty in the shape of a building built by the Portuguese.
  • Court Building: Situated on the Fairy Hill, this building commands a magnificent bird's eye view of Chittagong city, particularly at night. The Court building was built immediately after the East India Company conquered and declared Chittagong as a separate administrative area in 1773. The building is huge, over 250 thousand square feet and has hundreds of rooms.
  • Red-light district:The Red light district is situated near the Railway station at Kadamtoli. Opposite to the railway stations (basically there are two in Chittagong, one is the new one and another is the British built old one) a number of Hotels cater women and girls ranging from a cheap to quite a high price. Foreigners can sometimes request the room boys in their hotels for girls depending on what hotels they are staying. Some cheap hotels also offer quickies. A vast collection of porn CDs, VDVs, and books in local language are sold openly on road-side near the rail stations. This is an awsome site! At night and in evening you might even see girls standing nearby looking for customers. The place is quite crowded and looks like a typical bangkok brothel area.
  • Kattali Beach. Natural beach with mangrove forest west of Halishahar and south of Kattali.

Nearby

  • The shipbreaking yards near the Indian Ocean are Chittagong's international claim to fame, but for the wrong reasons; these are considered one of the most polluted places on Earth with highly dangerous practices and hazardous working conditions. Green Peace is actively campaigning against them and trying to bring this issue further into the light. Tourists are not usually welcome, but some travelers have been able to sweet talk the gate-keeper and get amazing photos of massive ships being dismantled for parts and steel. There are many breaking yards stretching for miles, so start at one end and try your luck until you have success. Keep your wits about you, safety practices leave something to be desired. It's also wise to keep your camera hidden until you're out of view of the officials, lest you be mistaken for a journalist out to do them harm. Bus #6 runs from Station Road, or you could hire an auto-rickshaw.

Do:


There are a few amusement parks and public parks in Chittagong: Foy's Lake Amusement Park chittagong

  • Karnafully Sishu Park (Agrabad,Chittagong)
  • Zia Sishu Park (Circuit House,Chittagong)
  • Mini Bangladesh (Chandgaon,Chittagong)
  • Biplobi Uddan (2 number gate,Chittagong)
  • Jatisongho Park (Panchlaish, Chittagong)

Buy:

Aarong Handicrafts has a large branch on 1-2,CDA Avenue,Biman Bhaban(2nd Floor),Sholashahar, Nasirabad, Chittagong

Eat:


The people of Chittagong love oily and spicy food. This can be a problem for foreigners and lead to upset stomachs. If you are a foreigner you should consider sticking with better restaurants and eating in large hotels. Never eat green salad which comes with your meal as you will not know if it has been washed in sanitized water. Just a handful of restaurants in town use sanitized water to wash salad and this is a recipe for explosive diarrhoea.

One oddity in Bangladesh is that restaurants advertise themselves as, for example, "Zaman Hotel and Restaurant" but do not operate a hotel. Where you eat at one of these establishments you can tease them by demanding a room. NB: one room stores also have signboards advertising themselves as 'Department stores'.

  • Ambrosia, Jiban Bima Bhaban (Ground Floor), 1053, Sk. Mujib Road (Next to Radio Station & Opposite to Standard Chartered Chittagong Main Branch), +880 31 2513576 (fax: +880 31 2513460), [1]. Buffet Lunch: 12-4PM; Dinner: 6-11PM. The largest and the latest international standard restaurant in town with a Karaoke corner, seats up to 500 people across 2 floors. Has a huge menu of Continental, Indian, Thai, Chinese, Indonesian and Bangladeshi dishes. Fully air conditioned and very smart. edit
  • Bonanza, Above Aarong and opposite to the Meridian (GEC circle). The best restaurant in town which is of international standard. Bonanza has a huge menu. Recommended for foreigners who need a break from an upset stomach. Mains Tk 500. edit
  • The Meridian, Opposite to Bonanza (GEC circle), Don't know. The Meridian has an excellent lunch buffet for around 350 taka. The rest of the menu used to be pretty good but as of late it is better to stick to the buffet. Mains Tk 300. edit
  • Shaad Snacks, Station Road, across the street from New Market. A friendly place serving the usual fast food snacks - rolls and buns filled with chicken, beef or vegetables, microwaved to a spongy perfection as you order. They've got a good range of sweets as well. (the food at these snack places is not healthy for foreigners) ~Tk 10. edit
  • Shangri-La Chinese Restaurant, 39, Agrabad, 810210. Smart air-conditioned Chinese restaurant. But the place has nose dived recently and other restaurants have opened. ~Tk 300-400 per person. edit
  • Baskin Robbins, just east of GEC Circle. One of the city's greatest redeeming qualities.
  • Sugarbun (Well food), GEC circle. Fast food place from the international chain of the same name. Selling pizza, burgers, fries plus a variety of dishes to Asian tastes in a fast food format. Sugarbun also sells coffee, cakes, bread and other snacks. ~Tk 175-250 per person. edit
  • Pizza Hut, GEC circle up the hill towards Welmart. Pizza hut only arrived in Chittagong in 2006. Before that people had to go all the way to Dhaka for pizza. ~Tk 230-500 per medium pizza. edit
  • Zaman Hotel (there are 13 Zaman hotels in Chittagong), just north of GEC Circle, on west side of street, 0189 649 138. The menu contains no foreign dishes and this is not a place where foreigners typically eat, though it falls at the top end of middle class Bangladeshi restaurants. The place is clean, the food is OK, the service is good. You can ponder the wisdom in the quote on the menu: "For super disk with quality food to avoid cooking please step with whose family at Zaman Hotel." There are two restaurants of the same name on the same block - this one is the most southerly, with the huge neon sign on the roof. Mains Tk 40-100. edit
  • Zaman Hotel (Agrabad), On the Agrabad circle, Don't know. The Zaman hotel at the Agrabad circle has the best food of the Zaman hotels. The Chicken Biriyani is particularly good coming with a large piece of chicken, an egg, rice, and a delicious sauce. The environment is more worn than hotel Zaman at the GEC circle. But the food is better. Since there are virtually no good places to eat on a budget in Agrabad it is worth checking this place out. Tk 50-100 for a meal. edit*

KFC, 5, CDA Avenue, Ispahani Moar, Dampara, Chittagong.Ph: 031-622879, 031-622892. The International fast food chain KFC has recently opened it's first outlet in Chittagong promising to serve high quality fast food in a popular array of complete meals to enrich the consumer’s everyday life.

[edit][add listing] Drink

Alcoholic beverages are available at five-star hotels in Bangladesh as well as a number of private clubs. Four hotels in Chittagong have bar license; the Agrabad hotel, the Silmoon hotel, The Saint Martin hotel and the Peninsula hotel. While all the hotels are expensive for drinks the Peninsula is the most expensive by far.

There are three private clubs in Chittagong. The premiere club is the Chittagong Club which is located at number one Empress Road. The Chittagong club has a bar license and serves foreign alcohol in addition to local gin, vodka and whisky. Chittagong Club membership is closed but foreigners can apply for "temporary membership" for up to two years.

The Chittagong Institute is a far smaller club but it does maintain a bar. It is located in Jamal Khan road.

The Catholic club opens membership to all persons for a small fee but membership applications are only accepted once a year (I think during December). It maintains a small bar serving local drinks.

Here you can buy Bangladeshi local branded (KARREW AND CO, Darshona) alcohol(Vodka,Ram,Malted,Whiskey,Gen) from licensed ware houses situated in Shadar ghat (Kazi & co.), BRTC,near railway station (Foreign Liqueur)and from Dewan Hat. If you want to go Bar, then you can go Hotel Shahjahan at Shadarghat, it is well furnished bar and here also a BAR at BRTC bus stand adjacent to foreign liqueur shop.

It is possible to buy alcoholic beverages, ranging from local brews to smuggled beer and counterfeit brand alcohol. Local booze is available legally at government licensed shops. There is one in Agrabad on Sheik Mujib Rahman road. It is tucked into an alley way a short distance from the first floor "Siemens" showroom. Counterfeit branded alcohol is available from illegal traders in Kulshie and other area. Deaths have been reported from consumption of adulterated liquor. Headaches and illness are more common. Smuggled booze is sometimes available from the sea beach.

Readers should note that the 'Expats Inn' has closed it's doors. So no more pub nights!


Sleep:


Budget

  • Hotel Miskha, 95 Station Road, +880 (0) 31 610923. checkout: 12PM. One of the better of the Station Road cheapies, rooms are large, fairly clean and more atmospheric than others in the area with faded old wooden furniture. Prices are a little high but don't even think of asking the stubborn manager for a discount or to throw in a TV. There's a decent restaurant behind the reception desk. Tk 200-300.

Mid range

  • Asian SR Hotel: The Asian SR Hotel is a 3 star international hotel situated on 291 Station Road, Chittagong, Bangladesh. Phone : +880-31-636383, Mobile: 01711889555, Website: www.asiansrhotel.com, Email: info@asiansrhotel.com
  • Hotel Al-Faisal, 1050 Nur Ahmed Road, +880 (0) 31 710048. checkout: 12PM. This is a good option, mostly because it's far enough away from Station Rd. Tk 350-1200.
  • Hotel Bandargaon, 875 Nur Ahmed Road, +880 (0) 31 637686. checkout: 12PM. Near Hotel Al-Faisal, it's also a good choice. Rooms around Tk 600.
  • Hotel Eastern View, 225/A, Sk. Mujib Road, (Chowmuhony) Agrabad, Phone: 00880-031-2510567,2514935, Hot Line: 00880 01727-739 839,01710-914 448, 01811-227 888, E-mail: easternview@ctgtel.net. The newest hotel in Chittagong. It is well equipped, 24 hours service, lift, standby generator, all kinds of food in room, Internet, hot & cold water, secretarial service. It's run by ex-managers of renowned hotels & staff are really good, whole atmosphere is quiet & clean.
  • Hotel Sylhet Super, 16 Station Road, +880 (0) 31 632265. checkout: 12PM. This is a very large hotel west of the train station, good if you need to be in this area. Tk 300-1000.
  • Hotel Golden Inn, 36 Station Road, +880 (0) 31 611004. checkout: 12PM. Across the street from Sylhet Super, it's another decent choice. Tk 400-1000.
  • Hotel Golden Inn, Station Road. A 2-star hotel situated on.
  • Hotel Saint Martin: Hotel Saint Martin is a 3-star hotel situated in the commercial district of Chittagong on Sheik Mujib road.

Splurge

  • Hotel Agrabad, Agrabad Commercial Area, +880 31-713311 (), [2]. A 4-star business hotel in the commercial district; restaurants and a swimming pool. Online booking available. $165-$700.
  • The Peninsula Chittagong, 486/B, OR Nizam Road, CDA Avenue (near the G.E.C Circle), +880 31-616722 (, fax: +880 31-624385), [3]. 4-star hotel. The roof of the building contains a swimming pool and offers a view of the entire city. $100-$150.

Contact:


Internet Cafes can be found around the intersection of Station Rd and Jubilee Rd and around GEC Circle.

Dot Com, 945 O R Nizam Road, GEC Circle, ()

Dhaka City



Understand:

Dhaka is a thriving, colorful and congested metropolis of some 12 million people, and growing steadily. Given the number of people that live there, Dhaka is one of the most frenetic places on Earth. The streets and rivers are filled with colorful chaos. It also plays host to the highest number of rickshaws in any city, totaling around 400,000; you certainly won't miss them. Experiencing the city for the first time can often seem overwhelming.

According to recorded history it was founded in 1608 A.D. as the seat of the imperial Mughal viceroy of Bengal. Dhaka has been developing fast as a modern city and is the country's center of industrial, commercial, cultural, educational and political activity. The gap between rich and poor is widening throughout the country but it's at its most glaringly obvious here. Depending on where you start from, a thirty minute rickshaw ride can take you from impossibly crowded shantytowns near Old Dhaka to the glitzy high-class neighborhoods of Gulshan and Banani where a meal costs more than most people make in a week.

Motijheel is the main commercial area of the city. Dhaka's main waterfront, Sadarghat, is on the banks of the river Buriganga in Old Dhaka and is crowded with various ferries, yachts, paddle steamers, fisherman's boats and floating dhabas all bustling with activity.

The weather is tropical - hot and very humid during the monsoon season (April-August) and drier and cooler in the winter (October-March). Visitors from colder countries might want to visit in the winter when temperatures are around 20C and humidity is low (around 60-70%).

Visa extensions are available at the Immigration and Passport Office on Agargaon Rd in Central Dhaka. Most drivers know where it is. An auto-rickshaw from Old Dhaka will cost about Taka (BDT)150. Su-Th 10AM-1PM receiving applications, 3-5PM delivery.

Get in:

By air

Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport ( Formally known as Zia International Airport) (ICAO: DAC) is well served by international flights from most continents. Biman Bangladesh Airlines is the national carrier of Bangladesh; which is well connected in 18 international destination. Mainly in Middle East also Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand and also Indian Subcontinent.

Thai Airways has direct flights from Bangkok. There are also gateways from Nepal on GMG Airlines, Hong Kong on Dragon Air, Malaysia, Singapore, Delhi, Kunming and Kolkata. You can also travel to Dhaka from Middle East by Gulf Air, Emirates, Qatar Airways, Etihad Airways, Kuwait Airways, Saudi Arabian Airlines, Yemenia, and Both Dhaka & Chittagong by Bahrain Air, Oman Air and Air Arabia.

Shahjalal airport is modern and reasonably efficient. However, half the worlds mosquito's seem to live in the baggage reclaim area, so be sure to wear long sleeves and covered legs/feet.
[edit] By bus

Being the capital and geographical center of the country, Dhaka is the natural hub for the country's bus companies. There are several bus stations around Dhaka, and which one you need to be at depends where you want to go, so ask around before heading out to one of them. Most are as crowded as you would expect them to be(because of population).

Sayedabad bus station is useful for buses to the eastern half of the country including Sylhet Division and Chittagong Division.

Gabtali bus station serves most of the western half of the country including Jessore, Rajshahi Division and Khulna Division.

Mohakhali bus stationserves mainly to Tangail, Mymonsing and other northern districts of Dhaka. Sometimes also Bagura and other western-northern part of Bangladesh.

Luxury buses like Green Line, Shyamoli, Silk Line and Shohagh serve the major cities and tourist attractions. They all have a few offices around town, the most central being those near the Eastern Hotel on Inner Circular Rd in Central Dhaka, just north of the Motijheel area. Green Line serves Chittagong (400 taka, 5-6 hours), Cox's Bazar (630 taka, 8-9 hours), Rajshahi ( Tk 350, 4 hours), Sylhet (Tk 400, 5 hours), Khulna (Tk 450, 7 hours) and Jessore ( Tk 400, 5-6 hours) in its comfortable Volvo buses. It also has a couple of super luxury Scania buses to Chittagong (Tk 550) and Cox's Bazar (Tk 850) if you feel comfortable floating through a developing country in high style and have enough taka to spend(however the money spent could go towards helping develop Bangladesh more). Seats are huge and fully recline. The quality of these buses are comparable to Business class of an airline!! (there are also Hino A/C luxury buses as well as Volvo and Scania). Recently, the S.Alam and the Saudia, two of the leading (non-ac) bus service providers have jointly launched a Mercedes-Benz luxury bus service to Chittagong, Cox's Bazar and some other major cities. One of the ticket counters has been opened at the Panthapath, an area where you can locate all major luxury bus ticket counters.

From India there are a number of land entry points for Buses. The most common way is the regular comfortable a/c buses from Kolkata to Dhaka via the Haridaspur / Benapole border post. Private bus companies Shohagh, Green Line, Shyamoli and others operate daily bus services. Government buses run under the label of the state owned West Bengal Surface Transport Service Corporation (WBSTSC) and the Bangladesh Road Transport Corporation (BRTC). WBSTSC and BRTC both operate buses from Kolkata every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 5:30AM and 8:30AM, and 12:30PM while from Dhaka they leave on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 7:00AM and 7:30AM. The normal journey time is around 12 hours with a one-way fare of Indian Rs.550 or Tk.600-800, (roughly $8-12). If you're only headed to Haridaspur the fare is Rs.86, or Tk 116. The journey should take around 2.30 hours.
[edit] By boat

Most ferries arrive at and leave from Sadarghat in Old Dhaka. This area and the streets surrounding it are unbelievably hectic so allow plenty of time and watch your bags and pockets carefully. If arriving here, fight your way to the left on the frontage road and then make your first right - this turns into Nawabpur Road and leads north to the hotels. Even if you aren't staying in this area, it's easier to walk several hundred meters north to catch an onward rickshaw, the ones near the ghat are at a standstill.

The Rocket Steamers (P.S. 'Tern', 'Masud' and 'Ostrich') run to Barisal and Khulna several times per week, departing from Sadarghat around 6pm. To Barisal is Tk 480/300 in first/second class, while all the way to Khulna will run Tk 1010/610 and take 26-30 hours. Tickets should be booked at the BIWTC office in Motijheel just east of Dilkusha Circle I. It's open until 5PM Su-W and until 2PM on Thursdays, closed on Fridays. A quick heads-up in that the link to the BIWTC tariff mentioned above is in 'Takas' and one should double check the fares.

Chandpur is the second major river station 3 to 4 hours journey from Dhaka and 5 to 6 hours Journey from Barisal.

Multiple other boats are available for short and long distances - head to Sadarghat or Badam Tole ghat (about 1 km further west) and ask around. Tickets aren't pre-sold, and bargaining is likely necessary.

Get around:


Given the plethora of all forms of transport, if you're having trouble getting a decent fare with a driver walk a few feet to the next one. Not all are out to gouge you, so better to find the honest ones and give them your business. Occasionally a driver will demand more money on arrival - the best way to deal with this is to hand over the agreed fare/metered fare and walk away. Make certain from the start that the driver knows where you're headed (unless you can direct him yourself) - they often have limited local knowledge, but will always SAY that they know where somewhere is and take you round the whole city searching whilst the meter ticks. Make sure that you take a card with your hotel or hostel on it so that you can actually get home - many of the drivers do not even know where the more touristy sites are let alone the hotels so they will have to ask people at the side of the road. Having a card for the hotel with the actual address makes this a whole lot easier.

  • Cycle-rickshaws are the most popular form of transport, and good for short distances -- mainly on side streets. They make up the bulk of the cities horrendous traffic, and charge around BDT.5 per kilometer. Negotiating a fare beforehand is essential as a foreigner. Cycle-rickshaws in wealthy areas such as Banani and Gulshan often must pay local mafia men for the privilege of servicing the high-price areas. Additionally, foreigners should also be warned that cycle-rickshaws will sometimes begin the ride with a pitch to sell drugs or prostitutes. One or two simple, but firm, declines will generally solve the situation. If you're a woman -- it's particularly inadvisable to ride around alone in cycle-rickshaws after dark -- you're a slow-moving target asking for trouble from thugs and muggers.
  • Auto-rickshaws (also known as 'CNG') are also abundant and have meters, which drivers can sometimes be persuaded to use. They're the cheapest way to cover longer distances - an 8km ride from Old Dhaka to Gulshan should cost around Tk 70. The meters start at Tk 13.50, but for shorter distances you'll likely have to negotiate a fare instead. The city does become very congested at times so allow plenty of time for getting around.
  • Taxis also ply the roads, some yellow and some black, all with meters. Black taxis start the meter at Tk 15 while yellow taxis are a little nicer and start at Tk 20. Black taxis are typically in notoriously poor condition and lack air conditioning. Yellow taxis are required to have air conditioning, (they consist of Toyota Corollas mostly, Mitsubishis or Hondas even). They are also considered far safer by the local Dhaka elite. (when compared to black taxis and auto-rickshaws).
  • Buses run routes on the main roads, but are horribly crowded and noisy, signed only in Bengali and aren't likely to be of much use to travelers. Save yourself a headache and take a rickshaw or if you go to far distance, take a comfortable, luxurious A/C bus or a train!!

See:


Dhaka, predominantly was a city of the Mughals. In the years of their vigorous rule the successive Governors and princely Viceroys who ruled the province, adorned it with many noble monuments, mosques, tombs, fortifications and 'Katras' often surrounded with beautifully laid out gardens and pavilions. The Parliament building designed by, Louis Kahn, is definitely something to see along with numerous memorials, parks and mosques. Places worth visiting include: Ramna Park, Lal Bagh Fort and museum, Old Dhaka, the Shahid Minar memorial, the Shadarghat port, Ahsan Manjil, Bangabandhu Memorial, National Poet's Graveyard, Suhrawardy Uddyaan, National Leader Mausoleum, Banga-Bhaban, Shadhinota Stambha, Curzon Hall, Old High Court and 1857 Memorial, the Botanical Gardens, Baldha Garden, Sitara Mosque, Baitul Mukarram Mosque as well as Hindu, Buddhist and Christian churches and temples.

  • Ahsan Manjil:, the pink palace, has a Tk 2 entrance fee and a small exhibition about the history of the palace and a garden.
  • Mosques around Dhaka: Dhaka has several hundred mosques. Prominent are Baitul Mukarram-National Mosque, the Seven Domed Mosque (17th century), Star Mosque (18th century) inlaid with mosaic and tiles , Chawkbazar Mosque and Huseni Dalan Mosque.
  • Hindu Temples: Dhakeshwari Temple (11th Century), Ramkrishna Mission.
  • Churches: Armenian Church (1781 A.D.) St. Mary's Cathedral at Ramna, Church of Bangladesh or former Holy Rosary Church (1677A.D.) at Tejgaon.
  • Buddhist Temples: Dhammarajika Bouddha Maha Vihar [1], Atisha Dipankar Sarak, Kamalapur. Tel:+88 2 841-162. email: Mahathero@Dhammarajika.com. International Buddhist Monastery, Merul Badda, Gulshan. Tel:+88 2 881-2288. email: pratimbarua@hotmail.com
  • The National Memorial:, located at Savar, 35, km. from Dhaka city. The memorial designed by architect Moinul Hossain is dedicated to the sacred memory of the millions of unknown martyrs of the war of liberation.
  • Lalbagh Fort: It was built in 1678 A.D. by Prince Mohammad Azam, son of Mughal emperor Aurangazeb. The fort was the scene of bloody battle during the first war of independence (1857) when 260 sepoys stationed here backed by the people revolted against British forces. Monuments of the Lalbagh which are outstanding include the, tomb of Pari Bibi , Lalbagh Mosque, Audience Hall and Hammam of Nawab Shaista Khan now housing a museum. The fort is closed on Saturday but open until 5pm every other day.
  • 1857 Memorial: ( Bahadur Shah Park) Built to commemorate the martyrs of the first liberation war (1857-59) against British rule. It was here that the revolting sepoys and their civil compatriots were publicly hanged.
  • Curzon Hall: Beautiful architectural building named after Lord Curzon. It now houses the Science Faculty of Dhaka University.
  • Old High Court Building: Originally built as the residence of the British Governor, it illustrates a happy blend of European and Mughal architecture.
  • National Park: Situated at Rejendrapur, 40 km. north of Dhaka city , this is a vast (1,600 acres) national recreational forest with facilities for picnics and rowing etc.
  • Central Shahid Minar: Symbol of Bengali nationalism. This monument was built to commemorate the martyrs of the historic Language movement of 1952. Hundreds and thousands of people with floral wreaths and bouquets gather (most march barefoot) on 21 February every year (designated by the UN as International Mother Language Day) to pay respect to the departed in a solemn atmosphere. Celebrations begin at midnight.
  • National Poet's Graveyard: Revolutionary poet Kazi Nazrul Islam died on the 29 August 1976 and was buried here. The graveyard is adjacent to the Dhaka University Mosque.
  • Suhrawardy Uddyan (Garden): A Popular Park. The oath of independence of Bangladesh was taken here and the Father of the Nation Bangabandhu Sheik Mujibur Rahman gave the clarion call for independence on the 7th March 1971. The place is famous for its lush greenery and gentle breezes. An eternal flame in remembrance of the martyrs of the war of Liberation burns here.
  • Mausoleum of National Leaders: Located at the southwestern corner of Suhrawardy Uddyan, it is the eternal resting place of great national leaders, Sher-e-Bangla A.K. Fazlul Haque, Hossain Shahid Suhrawardy and Khaja Nazimuddin.
  • Banga Bhaban: The official residence of the President, located in the city. One can have an outside view of this grand palace.
  • Baldha Garden: Unique creation of the late Narendra Narayan Roy, the landlord of Baldha. Year of establishment was 1904. Located in Wari area of Dhaka city, the garden with its rich collection of indigenous and exotic plants is one of the most exciting attraction for botanists, naturalists and tourists.
  • Ramna Green: A vast stretch of green garden surrounded by a serpentine lake near the Sheraton Hotel.
  • Parliament House: Jatiya Sangsad Bhaban (Parliament House) located at Sher-e-Bangla Nagar has distinctive architectural features. Designed by the famous architect Louis I. Kahn, it may be called an architectural wonder of this region.

  • Sonargaon : If you feel the need to escape and take a break from the chaos of Dhaka, Songargon, about 29 km. from Dhaka offers you the chance to do just that. The town has a few worthwhile sights that are separated from one another and whilst going from sight to sight, you have the opportunity experience rural life and take in the less chaotic surroundings.
  • Sonargaon is one of the oldest capitals of Bengal. It was the seat of Deva Dynasty until the 13th century. From then onward till the advent of the Mughals, Sonargaon was a subsidiary capital of the Sultanate of Bengal. The main places of interest in Sonargaon are the ruins of Panam Nagar, the local crafts museum or the Lok Shilpa Jadughar (charges an entrance fee), the tomb of Sultan Ghiyasuddin, the Goaldi Mosque, and the shrines of Panjpir and Shah Abdul Alia. The first two lie on one side of the Dhaka-Chittgong Highway and the rest lie on the other side. Once at Mograpara, a rickshaw may be hired for sightseeing. It is best to hire the same rickshaw for a fixed amount (BDT 200-250) to visit all the places in Sonargaon. Most rickshaw pullers know the more popular destinations like Panam Nagar, the Lok Shilpa Jadughar, etc. Some may not know of the tomb of Sultan Ghiyasuddin or the Goaldi Mosque and the shrines. Usually rickshaw drivers who are locals from the village know all of these places.

    Frequent bus services to Sonargaon operate from Gulistan, Saidabad and other bus stands in Dhaka. Tickets may be bought on roadside counters. Mention your destination as Mograpara as you might end up at the Pan Pacific Sonargaon Hotel instead. The price of the ticket from Gulistan bus stand is Tk 35.

    Hajiganj is another place of historical interest, situated about 10 kms from Mograpara bus stand. However, the above mentioned places usually take up most of the day and it is best to return to Dhaka before evening. Sonargaon and Hajiganj may be combined into a single day if one sets off very early from Dhaka.


Do:


Dhaka has several museums on offer as well as a Zoo and Botanical gardens. In the surrounding areas you can enjoy a picinic in one of the designated 'picinic areas' whilst en route to a near by village to take a look at local arts and crafts.

  • Bangabandhu Memorial Museum: The residence of the father of the nation Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman at Dhanmondi (Road 32) has been turned into a museum. It contains a rare collection of personal effects and photographs of his life and times. He was assassinated in 1975 along with most of his family members.
  • Liberation War Museum: Situated at Segun Bagicha area of the city (close to National Press Club) the museum contains rare archival photographs and items used by the freedom fighters during the nine-month long Liberation war in 1971.
  • Ahsan Manzil Museum: On the bank of the river Buriganga in Dhaka the pink majestic Ahsan Manzil has been renovated and turned into a museum recently. It is an example of the nation's rich cultural heritage. It was the home of the Nawab of Dhaka and a silent spectator to many events. The renovated Ahsan Manzil is a monument of immense historical beauty. It has 31 rooms with a huge dome atop which can be seen from miles around. It now has 23 galleries displaying portraits, furniture and household articles and utensils used by the Nawab.
  • Dhaka Zoo: Popularly known as Mirpur Zoo. Colorful and attractive collections of different local and foreign species of animals and birds including the majestic Royal Bengal Tiger are available here.
  • Botanical Garden: Built on 205 acres of land at Mirpur and adjacent to Dhaka Zoo. You can do both the zoo and the botanical garden in one trip.
  • National Museum: Located at the central point of the city Shahbag, the museum contains a large number of interesting collections including sculptures and paintings of the Hindu, Buddhist and Muslim periods. Next to the Museum is the popular public library and the Charukola (Arts and Crafts) Institute under Dhaka University.
  • Science Museum: The museum is a modern learning center related to the latest scientific discoveries. It is situated at Agargaon.
  • Institute of Arts and Crafts: Situated in the picturesque surroundings of Shahbagh the Institute of Arts and Crafts (Charukola Institute) has a representative collection of folk-art and paintings by artists of Bangladesh.

Other attractions in and around Dhaka include: Aparajeya Bangla monument, picnic spots such as Chandra and Salna, industrial estates of Tongi, Narayanganj, Demara, Tejgaon and cruising by country boat in the nearby river or a visit to a village to see jute cultivation, weaving and pottery making.

Last but not least, a rewarding experience is simply traveling by a horse driven cart or rickshaw along the busy Dhaka streets and observing the local everyday scenes.


Buy:


If you go shopping ready to bargain then there are certainly bargains to be had among the bazars and markets of Dhaka. To get a feel for what things should cost in the local markets check prices in the western-style fixed price shops and then deduct 10%. If you prefer hassle free shopping then head to Bashundhara City, a huge shopping center with more modern shops and other ameniteis you would expect to find in a mall.

  • Banga (or Bango) Bazar, is a block west of the Gulistan bus station on Kamruzzaman Sharani Street at the edge of Old Dhaka. For shopaholics this is probably a paradise but for others it can be a nightmare. There are thousands of small stalls intersected by narrow walkways which are often jammed with people. The quality varies widely but the prices can be cheap, cheap, cheap, after you bargain vigorously. Try US$1 for a T-shirt, US$3 for blue jeans and US$5 for jackets.
  • New Market on Mirpur Road in Dhanmondi, just west of Dhaka University. This is the largest market in the city and it has more class, more room and just as much choice. Prices may be a little higher because the stall rent is likely to be more expensive. As well as clothing, there is leather, linen, jewelry, household goods, CDs and DVDs and so on. It is normally closed on Tuesdays.
  • Bashundhara City on Pantha Path just west of the Pan Pacific Hotel. This multi-story complex is the closest replica of the malls found in Asia. It is the newest and most modern place to shop in the city with small shops spanning over a whopping 10 floors.
  • Garment seconds, Banga Bazar and Pallwell Market (BB: Gulistan area, just West of Motijheel); PM: Purana Paltan area (just beside Jonaki Cinema Hall). Many items only have minor defects, but do not meet export requirements. edit
  • Pink Pearls. Available in many handicraft stores, with some dedicated outlets in Gulshan edit
  • Aarong, [2]. A well known chain with several outlets around Dhaka and one in London. It is owned by BRAC (a large NGO) and sells handicrafts and clothing at moderately high prices. edit
Aranya, 60 Kemal Ataturk, Banani. Another good store with beautiful crafts. Supports fair trade practices


Eat:


Dhaka has an enormous variety of food catering to all budgets. Old Dhaka is overflowing with cheap Bangladeshi food where a meal can be had from Tk 50 ($0.70), while in the upscale neighborhoods like Gulshan and Banani you can find just about any type of cuisine you can imagine - Chinese, Indian, Thai, Vietnamese, Greek, Mexican, and franchises such as Pizza Hut, KFC are abundant - at prices that the majority can't afford. Reservations are usually not required in most restaurants. A lot of the Buffet-style restaurants in this neighborhood have Taka: 250 to 400, fixed price menu.

Local sweets (misti/mishti) like rasgullah and gulab jamun are excellent. To the uninitiated these are bite-sized soft cheeseballs dipped (drenched) in syrup, coming in white and red varieties. Shops throughout the town (and especially near Gulshan) sell imported condiments from the U.S., Dubai and Malaysia at a premium. Imported chocolate is especially expensive - and usually not in the best condition as it gets melted and re-solidified daily in the tropical heat. Fresh is better.

Be careful when buying food from street vendors as health and hygiene standards are not always topnotch. Unlike Bangkok -- street food in Dhaka is only for locals. Foreigners should stick to larger, organized (and unfortunately a little expensive) food outlets.

Old and Central Dhaka
Image:Biryani.jpg
Biryani

Restaurants are crammed throughout the narrow alleys and along the main streets - duck into one of them and you'll likely not to be too disappointed. A full meal will usually run less than a dollar, though fish will push it closer to two.

* Hotel Al-Razzaque, 29/1 North South Rd (Nazira Bazaar), ☎ +880 2 956 1990. On the ground floor of the hotel is a large and popular restaurant, busy anytime of the day with Bangladeshi families and businessmen. Food is pretty darn good, if unpredictable in its timing. Sometimes you'll have a choice of chicken and mutton curries, fish and vegetables, other times it's chicken biryani or the highway. Fish will double the price of your meal, at least. It's sandwiched between a clean and well-stocked juice bar and a clean and well-stocked sweet shop. Each plate cost 80 Taka. Tk50-150. edit
* Hajjee Beryaniin old Dhaka. Old Dhaka was famed for its lines of beryani restaurants. Some of the more famous outfits are still going and Hajjee Beryani is one of them. It revels in its eccentric reputation for opening only at certain times and only cooking a certain amount (well below demand)
* Hotel Star International Thathari bazar, Near Nawabpur Bazar. Does fantastic Beryani.
* Bismillah Kabab Address-Nazira Bazar
* Jharna Grill, In Pan Pacific Sonargaon Hotel, ☎ +880 2 811 1005. The top restaurant in the hotel serves very good seafood. Expect to pay Tk 3,000 for a 3 course meal with drinks. The hotel has other good restaurants too. edit
* Cafe Jheel, opposite the National press club. Serves good local dishes for the budget traveler. Expect to pay Tk 150-200 for a 3 course meal. Although you can possibly get lunch/dinner for as low as Tk 60.

Gulshan/Banani:

These areas are packed with crowded trendy and upscale restaurants, a magnet for the Dhaka elite who like good food or just want to be seen in their shiny new sedans.

* Bamboo Shoot, Gulshan avenue (upstairs from Agora department store). A Chinese/Thai restaurant that prides itself in offering 'authentic' cuisine, and this is backed up by the number of Chinese expats seen eating there on any given night. Serves beer. edit

* Dhanshiri, Gulshan 2 (beside the Westin). The food is good and they serve decent local stuff. However, make sure to check prices on the menu card before ordering and examine the bill afterwards. There are better places to get Bengali food, but Dhashiri's location is especially convenient. edit

* El Toro, House 1A, Road 138, Gulshan I, ☎ +880 1 861 6343. 11:30AM-10:30PM. A Mexican restaurant serving burritos, enchiladas, quesadillas and the like. Mains around Tk 250-300. edit

* A&W, just south of Circle I, Gulshan. Yes, the American chain, and in full swing. A burger, fries and rootbeer float will set you back nearly BDT.300, which seems to be no problem for the well-off young Bangladeshi teens that fill the tables. The pumpin' jukebox filled with Backstreet Boys adds/detracts from the experience. edit

* Andersen's of Denmark, House 34, Road 136, Gulshan Circle I, ☎ +880 1 881 8553, [3]. 11:30AM-midnite, Fridays 2PM-midnite. Excellent ice cream such as mint chocolate chip, oreos & cream and banana fudge, sundaes and milkshakes, cappuccinos, espressos and hot chocolate. Resist the urge to spend the entire day here. Attached to a fast food restaurant ('Chicken King') serving fried chicken and steaks. Tk 80-260. edit

* CoFi 11, House Number 34, Road Number 21, Block B, Banani (Take the road opposite of Priyo Departmental Store & Fahim Music in Kemal Ataturk Avenue, ie Road number 18, cross the South East Univeristy Campus & immediately make the 1st left turn & its the 2nd house on the right. Very close to the Swiss Embassy), ☎ 06662628822, 01713364499, [4]. 11AM-midnite daily. Possibly the best coffee available in Dhaka, they import beans from Colombia, Guatemala, Kenya, Indonesia and even Starbucks beans and offer exotic drinks like lemogini, Shikanjee, Guava Frappe, Mango Yogurt & Mandolito. They also have espresso dipped brownies and good sandwiches. Free WiFi. They also have live musical performances on the 1st Saturday of every month & on the Wednesday of the 3rd week of the month

* Heritage, House 10, Road 109, Gulshan-2, ☎ +880 1 882 0350. Run by British-Bangladeshi celebrity chef Tommy Miah, this Mugal décor restaurant features Bangla-fusion cuisine. Tk 500-700 per person.

* Spaghetti Jazz, Gulshan. Decent Italian that delivers pizza and pasta! A meal will cost 400-600 taka, even for something fairly simple.

* Bella Italia, Gulshan 1 (attached to Apex Gallery). Located near Gulshan circle 1, beside the Gulshan-1 market. The proprietor was employed in the restaurant business in Italy and this place serves fairly authentic thin-crust pizzas and pastas. Mains are around Tk 300.

* Sura, Gulshan 2. Korean restaurant located across near the Egyptian embassy. Table-top barbecue and most popular Korean dishes are available, along with a selection of sushi and sashimi. Popular with Koreans and other expats. Expect to pay at least Tk 500 per person for a 3 course dinner

Dhanmondi:


  • Star Kabab-Opposite of Abahani Club playground and on Shat Maszid Road. Famous for its beef and mutton Kabab.
  • Star Hotel & Retaurant-At Dhanmondi Road 2. Also famous for its Kabab and Biriani.
  • Xindian-Dhanmondi 27 and Shankar crossing. One of the more luxurious restaurant in Dhaka which has been established lately.
  • Jeni Kabab An old and famous restaurant for Kababs.
  • Kozmo Lounge A very cozy hangout joint at Dhanmondi 4/A. The cafe sometimes arrange quality musical performances.
  • Mama HalimNew Circular Road 2nd Floor,(Opposite of Aarong)Moghbazaar, Tel.+88 06662625097. Sells: biryani, kabas cakes, ice cream, biscuits, fruit and, randomly, gifts.
  • Coopers- Kalabagan. Very famous for cakes and fast food.
  • Cafe Mango-Dhanmondi Road No.4. The ambiance is fantastic.
  • Red Tomato-Dhanmondi Road-27. A medium quality old Chinese restaurant which serves both Chinese and Thai food.
  • BBQ Tonight- Best in Town kebab and Mughlai food. Mouth watering and unbelievably tasty. Located on Road 27, Dhanmondi.
  • Nandos-A famous franchise located at Dhanmondi road 27.
  • Pizza Hut- Opposite of Abahani Club playground and on Shat Maszid Road.
  • VOOT- An upscale restaurant with a haunted theme (VOOT-meaning ghost in Bengali),high quality food, right next to the well known Rifles Square Market .

Drink:


There is a party network between the different expat clubs (Dutch Club, Canadian Club, Nordic Club, International Club, American Club, etc.) and some Bangladeshi clubs (Heritage, Privilege, etc.). These clubs usually require membership to enter, or befriend a member and have them sign you in. From there, you can purchase a book of tickets or a cash card and then use it to order your drinks.

Although alcohol is most easily available at the international clubs and top hotels, there are quite a few local places to find a drink for the enterprising traveler. Local bars are to be found in most neighborhoods but can be difficult to locate due to lack of advertising. Popular brands of beer (Heineken, Carlsberg, Tuborg, Foster's etc) and major types of liquor are available at these places, and at much lower prices than at hotel bars.

You can try:

  • La Diplomat at Road 20, House number 7, near Gulshan 1. Don't expect to be rubbing shoulders with any French ambassadors, however.
  • The Dip, like most other Bengali bars, is a smoke-filled darkened room where many of its patrons would rather not be recognized too easily. Definitely an experience, nonetheless. Beers cost upwards of Tk 150 and "tots," which are single ounce servings of gin, vodka or whiskey, are available from Tk 70(local brands)-Tk 200. Female patrons may feel slightly uncomfortable.

There is a duty paid shop in Mohakhali which is only permitted to sell alcohol to passport-bearing foreigners or their drivers who bring their passports in when they purchase. The address is 12 Abbas Garden, New Airport Road, phone +88 2988 1936-9. Their stated opening hours are from 9:30pm - 4:30pm, and closed on Fridays. To get there you need to go towards the flyover as if you were going to Banani, but instead of going on to the flyover, you take the second left after it begins. You will see a small sign labelled "Abbas Garden." Turn left and tell your transport to wait while you purchase.


Sleep:


Budget

* Hotel Al-Razzaque, 29/1 North South Rd (Nazira Bazaar), ☎ +880 2 956 1990. A moderately priced hotel popular with Bangladeshi men, it's got decent clean rooms with attached bathrooms with squat toilets, and a popular restaurant. From Tk 160. edit

* Hotel Grameen, 22 Nawabpur Rd, ☎ +880 2 956 2422. A big hotel on busy Nawabpur Rd, just south of Bangsal Rd. Tk 60-150. edit

* Hotel Sugandha, 24 Nawabpur Rd, ☎ +880 2 955 6720. Its cheap and it's what to be expected of a cheap hotel, not very exciting or hygienic. Tk 100-350. edit

* Hotel Zakaria International (Zakiria Hotel), 35, Gulshan Road, Mohakhali C/A, Dhaka 1212, ☎ 8825003, 8825004, (88) 06662613127, [5]. Value for money. The rooms are clean and en-suite. edit

* Hotel White House, 155, Santinagar (Near Siddheswari Circle.). In a central location and rooms have air con and TVs. edit

* Sabrina's Home (Home Stay), C1,Hs-1*7,RD-4,Blk-A,Banani, ☎ +88-01199812848,01911758668 (sablm@yahoo.cn). checkin: 1PM; checkout: noon. Rate includes WiFi, fan and AC, guests' kitchen, satellite and cable TV (in dining area, 24 hour hot water shower, mosquito net (for each pure handmade wood bed), generator(one ceiling fan and one light in each bedroom will work within one hour power off), 24 hour security, 24 hour reception, elevator. Other paid service include 24 hour airport transfers, 24 hour meals, laundry. Phonecall and email needed for reservation, foreign passport required for checkin". US$30/head/bed/night. edit

[edit] Mid range

If you're staying long term consider one of the many guesthouses in the Gulshan and Banani areas.

* Ambrosia Guest House, in Dhanmondi Residential Area, tel:+88 2 (0)966850/9665760. Tk 2,76 ($40) per night, with breakfast and free broadband Internet connection from the rooms.

* BRAC Centre Inn, 75 Mohakhali Dhaka 1212, +880-2-9886681 to 82, bracinn@bracinn.com, [6]. Near to the diplomatic enclave overlooking the Gulshan lake. A hotel that probably usually caters for business trips due to its location and facilities such as conference rooms. This will mean however,that your rooms will have as standard, air-con, TVs and en-suit. There is also a restaurant serving both local and international cuisine. Rooms from: Tk 4,100 -5,460 ($60-80).

* Eastern House, [7], House Number 04, Road Number 24, Gulhan-1. Has internet braodband in every room and breakfast is included in the price. Rooms from: Tk 3,420-6,156 ($50-90).

* Grand Prince Hotel [8] tel.+88-29012952, +88 2-8021599 . This hotel is located in Mirpur 1 near the Grameen Bank making it popular amongst interns. Breakfast is included with rooms. Internet is available in the lobby at 50 Tk per hour. Rates from Tk 1,368-6,840($20-$100).

* Ideas Manzil, House -19, Road -79, Gulshan-2, Dhaka, Bangladesh (From Zia international Airport Kuril Bissha Road to American Embassy then to Gulshan-2 then next to Italian Embassy Road-79, House-19), ☎ 880 2 989 6791 (info@bisonhospitality.com, fax: 880 171 4206336), [9]. Ideas Manzil could be called Bangladesh's first "heritage accommodation," meaning it is the kind of place which attempts to display and preserve the richness and heritage of Bangladeshi culture. Rates from Tk 4,446 ($65) $65-75. (latitude,longitude) edit

* Hotel de Crystal Garden, House number 28, Road number 63, Gulshan-2 Dhaka-1212, Bangladesh, ☎ +880 2 8823147 (info@degardenhotel.com, fax: 880-2-8827076), [10]. All rooms are air conditioned, en-suite and has cable TV. In close proximity you can find the American,Australian, British and a few other international clubs where you are likely to be able to get a beer. $50-80. (latitude,longitude) edit

* Grand Azad Hotel,info@grandazadhotel.com, [11] 55 Purana Paltan, +880-2-9559399. Located only 500 meters away from the main city and some of the main tourist attractions. Newly built modern hotel with facilities including a gym, lounge, restaurant, snooker room and an on site beauty salon. Prices from $37-106.

[edit] Splurge

* Lake Shore Hotel, Gulshan 2 (in the diplomatic area of town), ☎ +880 2 8859991 (info@lakeshorehotel.com.bd), [12]. Luxury 80-room hotel, rooftop pool, fitness, wireless and LAN Internet. Corporate discounts of 30% available. Probably the best medium sized 5* in the city. $100-220. (latitude,longitude) edit

* Radisson Water Garden Hotel, Airport Road (15 miles from downtown, immediately outside the diplomatic enclave but close to the International airport), ☎ +880 2 8754505 (sales.dhaka@radisson.com), [13]. Huge luxurious hotel sprawling over seven acres of manicured grounds and gardens with water features. All rooms are clean and contemporary. The hotel is almost a resort as it has a large outdoor swimming pool, tennis courts, spa and even a golf course. Arguably the best large hotel in the city. $160-220. (latitude,longitude) edit

* Dhaka Sheraton, 1 Minto Road, ☎ +880 2 865 3636 (sales@sheraton-dhaka.com), [14]. This hotel has been running for over a decade now, and was, for the longest time, considered one of the top hotels in the city. It is part of the Sheraton group but not quite comparable with 5* Sheraton's you would find in other countries. Internet access in the room is expensive. Room service choice is fairly limited. (latitude,longitude) edit

* Pan Pacific Sonargaon Hotel, 107 Kazi Nazrul Islam Avenue, ☎ +880-8111005 (dhaka@panpacific.com, fax: +880 2 811 3324), [15]. This hotel has been running for over a decade now, and was, for a long time, considered one of the top hotels in the city. In room internet access is available and works well. The hotel also has a swimming pool to enjoy. A room on the Pacific floor (7/8) will cost $290 including breakfast. These rooms are a good choice since laundry and wired internet access are included in the price, plus a free bar in the Pacific lounge from 1800-2000. There are good restaurants and service is excellent throughout the hotel. (latitude,longitude) edit

* Hotel Sarina, Plot # 27, Road # 17, Banani (in the diplomatic area of town), ☎ +88 02 8859604 (reservations@sarinahotel.com, fax: +88 02 988-9989), [16]. 5* hotel, all rooms have high speed internet connection along with dedicated port for laptop, mini bar , in room safe and satellite TV. Has an Italian restaurant on site. $110-450. (latitude,longitude) edit

* Hotel Orchard Plaza, 71 Nayapaltan Rd, Motijheel, ☎ +880 2 933 3904, [17]. Built in 2003 it's one of the newer top end hotels in town. Rooms are equipped with complimentary Internet, and it's comfortable and clean with super friendly staff. The restaurant on the 11th floor is also good and has broad city views. $70-150, but immediate 30% discounts are offered. edit

* The Westin, Plot-01, Road 45, Gulshan-2, Dhaka 1212 (in the diplomatic area of town), ☎ +880 2 989 1988, [18]. - relatively new, modern, clean, great service, and would be at home in any major western city.However, extortionately expensive - over US$10 for a small beer! $170-240 in winter, varies seasonally.

Stay safe:


Dhaka isn't terribly unsafe, but as in any huge city you should keep aware of your surroundings and try not to walk around at night, especially females travelling alone. There's a very large number of people living on next to nothing in the city, and while the vast majority are friendly there's undoubtedly a few that would love to help you part with some of your seemingly abundant wealth.

There has been a recent rash of incidents (as of July 2007) in which some foreigners have been targeted for bag snatchings while riding rickshaws. Often these have occurred at night, after 11pm. If you must be out after this time please do your best to leave your valuables at your friends' places or hotel and you can pick them up in the morning. The simplest way to reduce your potential loss is to not leave with valuables in the first place if you anticipate the need to travel after 11pm. The safest mode for travel for a tourist is to hire a yellow cab. These can rented for a trip as well as by the day. Be sure to write down the license plate number.

The greatest danger probably comes from speeding buses and rickshaws - keep well alert when walking along main roads.

Being the capital, it's the area most affected during hartals, and you should do your best to keep a low profile during times of political unrest. Avoid any sort of large gatherings, even positive ones, as there's a good chance you'll become the center of attention and you probably don't want that from a group of raucous chanters.

Pollution (like most other cities in the subcontinent)is high. It's not uncommon to see people with face masks on, and at the very least you should carry a handkerchief with you to cover your mouth and nose during rickshaw rides.


Contact:


Internet is most widely available in Gulshan and Banani at numerous Internet cafes hidden in the various shopping complexes - ask around. Tk 20-30 per hour. You may also stumble on to a computer or two in Old Dhaka or Central Dhaka.

A new place in Gulshan - 2 Circle, Building #11, Road #46, above the Philips showroom, in the same lane as Coopers - provides free Wi-Fi and Internet kiosks for their customers. Now that's convenient. And these guys really have great coffee.

Another one new restaurant in Mohakhali, opposite the East West University, named Newsroom Cafe - provides free Wi-Fi and Internet kiosks for their customers. Free Wi-Fi is also available in Kozmo Lounge situated in Dhanmondi.


Cope:


FM Radio Stations

* Radio Foorti - 88.0 MHz
* Radio Amar - 88.4 MHz
* ABC Radio (Dhaka) - 89.2 MHz
* Radio Today - 89.6 MHz
* Bangladesh Betar (Relays BBC World Service) - 100.0 MHz

Internet Radios


* Lemon 24
* Radio GoonGoon
* Radio Circle

Popular Newspapers

* The Bangladesh Observer (English)
* The Daily Star (English)
* The Financial Express (English)
* Naya-Diganta (Bengali)
* Dainik Shomokal (Bengali)
* Prothom-Alo (Bengali)
* ittefaq (Bengali)
Popular TV Channels

* RTV
* NTV (Bangladesh)
* ATN Bangla
* Channel i
* Desh TV
* Ekushey Television

Telecommunication

* GrameenPhone
* Warid
* Citycell
* Banglalink
* Teletalk
* Robi (formerly Aktel)

Embassies

* Canada, [19]. edit
* United Kingdom, British High Commission, United Nations Road, Baridhara, Dhaka 1212, ☎ (880) (2) 882 2705 (fax: :(880) (2) 882 3437), [20]. edit
* United States, Diplomatic Enclave, Madani Avenue, Baridhara, ☎ (880) (2) 885-5500 (fax: (880) (2) 882-3744), [21]. edit
* The Netherlands, ☎ (880) (2) 8822715-18 (fax: (880) (2) 8823326), [22]. edit
* Australia, 184 Gulshan Avenue, Gulshan-2, Dhaka 1212, ☎ 880 2 881 3105 (ahc.dhaka@dfat.gov.au, fax: 880 2 881 1125), [23]. Sunday to Thursday 8:00 am � 4:00 pm (lunch break 12:30 pm � 1:00 pm) Friday and Saturday Closed. edit
* France, ☎ +88 02 881 38 11 (à 14) / +88 02 882 33 20. edit
* Italy, ☎ +88 02 882 2781. edit
* Germany, ☎ +88 02 885 35 21-24. edit
* Russia, ☎ +88 02 882 81 42. edit
* India, ☎ +88 02 988 93 39, 9888789-91 (Dhaka). edit
* China, ☎ +88 02 882 48 62. edit
* Japan, ☎ +88 02 881 00 87. edit
* Saudi Arabia, ☎ +88 02 882 91 24-33. edit
* Korea, ☎ +88 02 881 20 88-90.